This style of cutting requires a 90 degree approach angle with a beveled and very durable edge that comes standard with almost all makes and models of scissors.
Generally used for straight line cutting, fringe and bob cut's.
Blunt
cutting and barbering scissors edge angles range from 47 - 55 degrees.
To cut across the grain of the hair the edge needs a steeper and thicker to cut properly. If you use a fine edge say 35 degrees it will break down the edge and get damaged when you blunt cut especially with a low quality steel grade.
Best results for this type of cutting require an approach angle between 45 – 60 degrees.
The mountain blade acts like a spine that adds rigidity and less pushing of the hair, particularly at the tips. This generally is a Clamshell Edge type, but can also be a Bevel edge.
When you want to slice you need an approach angle from 5 – 30 degrees and a Scissor Blade with a clamshell edge.
To hold this fine angle on a scissor for long periods of time you need a strong grade of steel, or you will be sharpening it every 6 months.
Thinners -
Tend to be cheap and nasty and it was recognised by some salons that they tend not to cut hair cleanly, leaving visible smashed ends that caused split ends. Then 10 years ago a transformation was made with the introduction of the “Radial Tulip Teeth” and “Spade Mouth Slots” this greatly improved the cut.
Excellent Edges “GA Glider Radial” Thinning Scissor cut evenly and consistently in any
direction. They can perform whole haircuts day in and day out because of
the metals sharpness and quality.
Thinners cut up to 15% of the section and mostly used blunt to the hair at 90 degrees.
Straight teeth thinners have a tooth angle of 78 degrees and radial tulip teeth thinners have a tooth angle cut at 90 degrees.
Texturisers are designed to be used at the chipping and sliding angles, which are in the range of 5 – 35 degrees to the hair.
Barra tooth -
Has a landing pin with a curved inner face to minimize damage on the cutting blade (it is the higher area when looking at the blade).
It also has “Barra” tooth slots that face forward, which allows slide texturising (the lower teeth of each and every tooth on the blade).
Offset angles are angles that are opposite. That is like the shape of
an “S” bend. The majority of thinning scissors have straight handles
i.e. they are not offset with two finger rests. This scissor can be used
both ways round, that is soft line and strong line cutting and for
inward and outward curve shaping.
They also have flat centre screws that
won’t catch on the hair..
Electrical wire cutting machines allow the making of complex curved teeth shapes that are cut radial to the centre screw, thus creating each individual tooth to have a different curve. Yet each tooth meets the cutting blade at the same angle giving a more even and consistent cut compared to the old straight cut thinners.
Texturisers are a specialised Hair Dressing Scissors designed for chipping and sliding angles of 5 – 35 degrees and cut more than 15% hair per section.
There are different types of tooth tips. Cheaper types have a machine cut bevels, which is used for blunt and solid line cutting and has a chunky feel to their action
Quality texturisers are cut using a complex controlled wire-cutting machine that gives more accuracy and a lighter cutting action.